I have not, yet, done such a wedding paper divas coupon code thermography conversion. .
It is rather typical on a good handling and good compromise (tire scrubbing, ETC.) rig, for the sidecar axle to point to the front edge of the tug rear rim. .I cut off the L section from the left side of the pedal, and welded it onto the right side of the added pedal. .Sure, I don't get free rotations at the store, but I've saved money (about half the price of the OEM tires).By unfastening at the bottom fasteners that go to the stock metal bracket (not shown and at the top (see second photo, inside area, where I made a simple beef-up plate the parts are removable without having to remove the strut, bottom mount, etc.Thus, an 18 inch wheel would have a bit over 9" lead.At the front, for the upper strut mounting area, either a special clamp, or welding is usually done, and usually is done such that it directs forces right to the steering head, or to the small round short BMW crosspiece just under the steering head.Yes, this photo is hard to see/understand.Due to the normal stock limited travel of the BMW pedal on the left (particularly with tug that has a disc brake like this one) and careful adjustment of the Ural brake adjustment nut (on the Ural wheel brake rod it is not possible.The photo below is of me, at one of the Griffith Park Sidecar Rallies.Here is a link to a rather nerdy article. .For some rigs, nose up and down has little effect. .There are some frame beef-ups on the tug, nothing major, but what WAS done was deemed important. .A spacer was made for the wheel bearing axle opening in the wheel, so that the wheel would not move about on the long bolt, as the wheel bearing inside diameter was considerably larger than the 12 mm bolt. .Adding weight at the correct place to a sidecar is often highly beneficial, when designing the frame, ETC. .They were wrong, and I have a LOT of very rough mileage on this rig, including on boonies trails on National and State forest roads, designed for horses, not ry rough stuff, including climbing over rocks and tree limbs, big ruts, etc.
I also might put force on the sidecar suspension, after a long eye-ball look.to see if something is angularly moving, etc. .For example, the Hankook Optimo H727 2 with a 100,000-mile or five-year warranty costs about 65-85 for a 14" wheel and 140-170 for 18".If just beginning settings alignment (and wheel lead IS set temporarily set the toe-in, to about 3/4". .I went there yesterday to repair a flat, as they do for free.I'm not proud of this "non-workmanship"!.but it was my experimental rig, not what I later did for customers. .As always, there are tradeoffs. .
Properly done, there is never a problem, even in very vigorous driving, of the sidecar rig. .